Sovremenny Deck Structures Page 1

   For the Latest USS Arizona Update click here. For the Latest LCT Mk 4  Update click here.

   Remember to Refresh (F5) / Reload.

Updated 3rd December 2005

Removing the moulded detail and numbering parts with a permenant marker pen.

While work continues on the hull, the various structures above the deck can be started. All of the surface moulded pipe work, ladders, doors and other embossed details are going to be replaced with photo etched or fabricated items. The original plastic details are all removed by very carefully shaving the material away with a scalpel or craft knife, using a brand new blade. This will cut cleanly. An old, dull blade will cut badly and will require more force, so if you slip a cut finger is much more likely!

This work is easier with the parts removed from the sprue frames. Trumpeter have engraved the individual part numbers on little flags rather than on the parts themselves, so mark the number on the back with indelible marker pen, so you can identify it. Clean up any flash and rough edges and smooth away any scratches with a fine file and abrasive paper. If you want to open up the windows, notice that some line up with internal construction ribs. Drill a small hole in a window, then open it out with a pointed straight blade. Make sure the sides are straight and clean, and that the windows are regular.

Bracing the deck house with polystyrene plastic sheet.

The assembly of the deck structures can continue, although I chose to reinforce the structures with 1 mm / 40 thou polystyrene plastic sheet. This piece fits between the cross bars (A7) and has little notches at the corners to fit around the kit location ribs. I needed to trim a little on the width after this picture was taken, so actual dimensions are 60.7 mm by 58.0 mm.

The fit of most of these joints needed some care to line up correctly, something most other reviewers have pointed out. Try to make sure the external joints are clean, any gaps can be reinforced inside with plastic strip and then filled on the outside with putty. Do not rely on the moulded location ribs as these can be out of position. The deck above can be used as a jig to hold the walls in place while the glue sets.

Steck and deck house assembly begins!

Basic assembly of the stack and rear deck house.

  The aft deck house needs some modification. The flying decks will be cut away (long red lines) as these should be slightly higher than the rest of this deck level, with a step around the rocket launcher bases. Keep the flying deck parts to use as patterns for the replacement items. The picture also shows the door details which have been duplicated from the starboard side, and are not on the real ship. Remove them! Careful study of photos and scale drawings are vital to see just how this correction should be made. GMS sell a superb set of 1:100 drawings of ‘Okrylenny’ and these are invaluable  for anyone modelling this class of ship. See the GMS web site here. Model Boat Plans of Great Yarmouth, UK,  are another source for these drawings. You can see their range here.

The stack is next. Close study of the reference pictures show the stack will need a lot of modification to look right. The forward corners should be radiused and the bottom section needs building out so it is rectangular in plan view, and the sides should not be vertical, but tapered continuing the angle of the stack sides. This would be easy to correct but for the various grilles in this area, which I had hoped to retain as the kit parts are nicely moulded, but now these will have to go. I will have to replace all the kit grilles with either photo etched items, or possibly water-slide decals. Time for the scalpel and files again!

Another major modification is needed to the hangar area. The sides of the hangar are divided into two as moulded the forward section is parallel, the aft is tapered. This should be the other way around! The corners between the sides and roof of the hangar should be radiused, while the rear face of the hangar, where the hangar doors are located, should project above the roof level slightly. The crisscross ‘girders’ on the roof need removing and replacing with an accurate layout of cable conduits. The internal details of the hangar will be added later, as will the ladders, hand rails, sensor platforms and other smaller details.

This close-up picture shows the stack partially assembled, with the cut lines marked on the roof of the hangar. The cuts can be made with a razor saw, or alternatively with repeated gentle cuts with a sharp craft knife. The shaded areas will be removed, retaining the sides so they can be glued back into their correct locations. Some filling will be needed to tidy this area prior to primer and paint.

Here the modifications to the hangar have been done, the rear walls are now parallel and the forward section of the hangar tapered inwards going aft. The base of the stack has been built up with auto body filler and sanded to the correct shape. The joint between hangar wall and stack base has been reinforced with a 1x2 mm polystyrene strip block. Cutting the hangar wall here leaves an open joint.

The rear deck house lower level needs a little trimming so it fits the sides of the stack, now angled, and then this ‘cutout’ below the helo flight control room is added. Mark out and remove the waste material, then box in with 0.5mm plastic sheet and strip. When the glue (Liquid Polystyrene cement) has set, trim away the surplus. A small window should also be cut in the front face of the helo control room.

The corners forward of the helo control room, and the same edge on the port side, should be radiused as in this picture. Aft, I have cut away the sides of the deck house to construct the recessed door ways. The plastic sheet reinforcement holds everything in place while this work is done. Reference to the GMS Plans is very useful at this stage. Some photos show this area but it is usually in deep shadow, making it difficult to work out exactly how this area is constructed.